Lima: Welcome to a destination that will truly surprise you
Good morning, afternoon or evening. Today I will introduce you to Lima, the city where I was born and where I still live. But before I continue, I want to warn you that this will be a different kind of story. I won’t be writing about tourist routes and circuits—be patient, that information will appear in other posts on this blog. I hope you enjoy this rather unusual welcome.
Lima seen through the eyes of a “limeño mazamorrero”. That’s what we are called thanks to Ricardo Palma, author of the Peruvian Traditions. He coined the phrase to highlight the fondness of the capital’s inhabitants for “mazamorra morada”, a dessert made with purple corn, a variety which, back in colonial times, was considered a mistake of nature.
Yes, Lima from the perspective of a “limeño” who, like so many others, is the child of migrants who came to the capital in search of a different future. This process transformed the serene colonial town into a metropolis that welcomes Peruvians from every region. That mixture is the origin of today’s Lima—the Lima of all cultures and colours.
“He who doesn’t have Inca blood has Mandinga blood”, says a popular phrase of unknown origin that fits perfectly with the population I am part of. Here, there is a bit of everything. This diversity of origins and backgrounds, of cultures and traditions, makes our capital both a mosaic of the country and a cosmopolitan urban space.
One city, many cities. Pre-Hispanic and colonial Lima. Republican and modern Lima. Lima of churches, mansions and balconies. Provincial Lima. Lima that speaks Spanish and Quechua. Supportive and entrepreneurial Lima. Lima with its sea and its desert. Lima with its grey sky and scarce rains. Lima of gourmet flavours, of gastronomic fusion, of homely seasoning in its markets and huariques (hidden local eateries).
Lima, my place in the world
I won’t lie to you. I don’t live in a paradise. My city has its problems and faces many difficulties, but despite these challenges, it is my place in the world – a place I feel proud of for what it was and for what it will become thanks to the efforts of all of us. That’s why I invite you to visit. You’ll see that you’ll have a “chévere” time (good time).
That means “really good” in the way we speak. Well, at least when I was young. Everything changes with time – even slang and our local expressions. It would be fun to take a tour of the way we communicate. That way, you’d find out that we say pe’ and pa’ instead of pues and para, among other variations that are part of our essence.
City of exquisite flavors
When it comes to food, Lima really is a paradise. Our gastronomy is extraordinary and, since we are right by the Pacific, it’s a true feast to enjoy our marine delights – especially the famous ceviche. Ah, but you must eat it with plenty of ají limo so it burns right down to your soul. After all, every true limeño – and every self-respecting tourist – knows that ceviche that doesn’t set your palate on fire isn’t real ceviche.
Did I scare you? I’m exaggerating. There are ceviches for every taste: from fiery ones reserved for the most seasoned diners to gentle ones, perfect for beginners learning to handle the chilli. But if you’re someone who likes risks and challenges, then dare to test your resistance to spice with our national dish.
Of course, it’s not the only one in a city celebrated for the skill of its chefs. We limeños love our food and we’re convinced our cuisine is among the best in the world. So, don’t even think about saying you didn’t enjoy causa, lomo saltado, cau cau, arroz con pollo, ají de gallina or carapulca, among many other dishes.
If you do, you risk being declared persona non grata by 99 per cent of the population… Yes, I admit it, I’m exaggerating again. Still, it’s true that our gastronomy is a source of pride. In Lima, eating is a serious matter. We love to explore, experiment, share and invite others to try the flavours of our homes – even if it means throwing “one more potato into the stew”.
That way there’s enough for everyone – and that’s the essence of our cuisine. It’s not just about preparing an exquisite dish or experimenting by fusing flavours and techniques. It’s about sharing, connecting, talking and laughing around a table where there’s always room for one more. Because where there’s space for two, there’s space for three, four, even five… There’s space for us all!
Lima, one destination, many attractions
Even though Lima always has room for everyone, many travellers see the capital only as a stopover or an overnight stay. Their tourist expectations usually go no further than a quick tour of the Historic Centre – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – a short stroll to shop and admire the ocean from the Miraflores boulevards, or a liberating bohemian night in Barranco.
Don’t make that mistake. Explore my city. Walk along its colonial and republican streets, wander through its pre-Hispanic archaeological sites, surf in the Pacific, find peace in its temples and churches, travel through history in the halls of its museums, feel the thrill of paragliding off a cliff, and enjoy anticuchos or a dish of picarones (Peruvian donuts) from a street cart.
If you love birdwatching, visit the Los Pantanos de Villa Wildlife Refuge. If you’d like to walk among desert greenery, head to the Lomas de Lúcumo. If religious art captivates you, the colonial cloisters will leave you spellbound; and if you’d like to take part in one of the largest processions on the planet, join the faithful of the Señor de los Milagros who “take over” the city each October.
Lima in its natural state. Lima of faith. Lima of urban adventures: hop on the Metropolitano, the bus system that connects the capital from north to south; dance at a Peruvian cumbia concert; watch the national football team at the National Stadium or a classic derby between Universitario and Alianza Lima; shop at Polvos Azules, a market where you’ll find just about everything at good prices.
There is so much to see and do in Lima that you might not believe it – and because I want you to believe me, I’ll show you the many faces of the capital. You’ll soon realise for yourself that we are a great destination, a vibrant metropolis, a city that keeps its traditions alive without giving up on modernity or globalisation. I’ll be waiting to guide you through my land and raise a toast to “our” city.
February 20, 2025