{"id":3498,"date":"2026-01-22T16:19:00","date_gmt":"2026-01-22T16:19:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourslima.org\/?p=3498"},"modified":"2026-02-22T16:57:28","modified_gmt":"2026-02-22T16:57:28","slug":"peru-february-is-carnival","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourslima.org\/en\/peru-february-is-carnival\/","title":{"rendered":"Peru: February is Carnival"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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\u201c<\/em><\/strong>\u00a1Carnaval, carnaval!, es el grito general \/ <\/em>\u00a1Carnaval, carnaval!, de alegr\u00eda sin igual.\u201d<\/em><\/strong> Yes, even if the year is still in its infancy, it\u2019s only right to start warming up your voice \u2014 if that\u2019s at all possible \u2014 polishing your dance steps, dusting off the costumes and, of course, telling you how this worldwide celebration unfolds<\/strong> in these lands of Incas and vibrant cultural blends<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201c\u00a1Todos a re\u00edr y a gozar! \/ \u00a1Todos a gozar del Carnaval! \/ Mascaritas, vamos a danzar, con ritmo triunfal.\u201d I\u2019m sorry \u2014 I simply can\u2019t get this festive polka out of my head, written by Filomeno Orme\u00f1o<\/a>. I used to hear it as a child, when my carnival experiences were limited to refreshing family \u201cshoot-outs\u201d with water pistols<\/strong> and the occasional \u201cbombardment\u201d with balloons filled \u2014 not with air \u2014 but with plenty of water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Years later, my memories of Carnival in Lim<\/strong>a were far less idyllic. In my youth, neighbourhood streets would turn into veritable battlegrounds. From behind the safety of their homes, residents launched balloons and buckets of water<\/strong> \u2014 not always the cleanest \u2014 at unsuspecting passers-by. In the rougher areas, groups of young men would chase after girls<\/strong> with the relentless energy of pira\u00f1as<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Photo: Diario Correo<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When they \u201ccaught\u201d their prey, they would drench them with water and paint. That kind of excess bore little resemblance<\/strong> to the nostalgic memories of older Lime\u00f1os, who clung to the belief that \u201ceverything in the past was better\u201d. Nor did it match those gentler recollections that carnival attacks once targeted even public transport buses<\/strong> \u2014 with such enthusiasm that drivers themselves often ended up soaked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The veterans weren\u2019t exaggerating. In the 1920s<\/a>, President Augusto B. Legu\u00eda<\/a> was determined to modernise the country<\/strong> in every possible way \u2014 including, according to those who remember, the traditions associated with King Momo. During his administration, grand parades were organised in the capital, featuring floats and lively troupes<\/strong>, as well as elegant costume balls where people played with talcum powder and perfume<\/strong> instead of water and paint.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Farewell to talcum powder and perfume<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Photo: Agencia Peruana de Noticias Andina<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I only ever heard nostalgic tales<\/strong> of that golden age. I didn\u2019t live it; it isn\u2019t part of my own story. My youthful memories \u2014 as I mentioned earlier \u2014 carry no scent of talcum powder or perfume. They have nothing to do with colourful costumes or elegant dances<\/strong>. Nothing of the sort. Just surprise attacks and the well-learned rule<\/strong> of never stepping out, not even to the corner shop, on Sundays in February<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The worst days. The days when anything goes. The days when it\u2019s wiser to stay indoors than risk a soaking in foul-smelling water or an unexpected splash of paint<\/strong>. I\u2019m sorry, King Momo<\/a> \u2014 forgive me, \u00d1o Carnaval\u00f3n<\/a> \u2014 but I struggle to understand your followers, at least in my city. They turn what should be a liberating, irreverent celebration<\/strong> into a string of senseless aggressions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s not that I dislike Carnival. If I did, I wouldn\u2019t be writing this. What troubles me is that in Lima, my city, this festival of pagan origins<\/strong> \u2014 which later became a season of excess before the Catholic Lent<\/strong> \u2014 has too often been reduced to drenching and painting anyone who happens to be out on the street. Fortunately, that isn\u2019t the case in other parts of Peru, as I began to discover while travelling across the country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Movement, colour, joy and ritua<\/strong>l unfold across the coastal sands, the valleys and mountain slopes of the Andes, and the lush green communities of the Amazon. \u201cCarnival is a European custom<\/strong>, but in Peru it has fused with traditional harvest celebrations known as Pukllay<\/strong>, which in Quechua means \u2018games\u2019<\/strong>,\u201d explains an article published on the website of the Fundaci\u00f3n BBVA.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the article titled Carnivals of Peru: From Satire to Abundance,<\/a> it explains that Pukllay is \u201ca celebration of traditions and colour<\/strong>, of dances and festive troupes, held between February and March throughout Peru\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is a vibrant and richly syncretic cultural spectacle whose Andean roots stretch back to pre-Hispanic times, while its Western influences can be traced to \u201cthe Catholic customs of the ancient Roman Empire\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Glimpse into History<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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\u201cThe carnival \u2014as noted on the National Geographic website, from which the final quotation in the previous paragraph is also taken\u2014 originates from the closing festivities celebrated by Catholic Romans<\/strong> in the days leading up to Lent<\/a>, a period that takes place before Easter in the Christian calendar, during which the faithful would abstain from eating meat<\/strong>, among other religious practices.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you delve even further back in time, there is evidence of festivals that may have laid the foundations for today\u2019s celebrations. In the article What Is the Origin of Carnival?<\/a>, pagan rituals such as Saturnalia <\/strong>(in honour of the god Saturn and the winter solstice) and Lupercalia are mentioned. The latter took place in February, \u201cthe month of the underworld deities<\/strong> and of purification for the Romans\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In both cases, the article concludes, the festivities \u201clasted for days and were characterised by an abundance of food, drink and dancing<\/strong>\u201d. So it\u2019s only right that you start preparing yourself \u2014 physically, mentally and even rhythmically \u2014 to make the most of the revelry that, from 14 to 18 February,<\/strong> will burst forth \u201cfar and wide across the entire country<\/strong>\u201d, as a famous sports journalist<\/a> once enthusiastically declared decades ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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And truth be told, beyond my annoyance at what sometimes happens in Lima and the excesses that are often committed, it\u2019s not a bad idea \u2014 and certainly not a mistake \u2014 to join the carnival troupes<\/strong>, slip into a costume, have a little dance in the street<\/strong> or out in the countryside, sing a cheerful copla or a lively huaynito<\/a>, and, why not, even commit a couple of tiny sins<\/strong> \u2014 venial ones, always venial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The invitation is there. All you have to do is choose where to go: a city, a town, a community<\/strong>. And wherever you end up, you\u2019ll be warmly welcomed<\/strong>. You\u2019ll sing, you\u2019ll dance, you\u2019ll raise a toast<\/strong> and perhaps \u2014 just perhaps, you never know \u2014 you might even fall a little bit in love<\/strong>. After all, boredom is the only thing that\u2019s completely ruled out in the carnival whirlwind that sweeps across Peru<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Carnival, Peruvian Style<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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\u201cWhere should I go to have a brilliant time?\u201d you may be wondering, with a mix of excitement and anticipation. The question has plenty of answers. For instance, if you\u2019d like to surrender to the high spirits and sheer frenzy of the comparsas and patrullas<\/strong>, Cajamarca<\/a> is, in my view, the very best choice. After all, in this northern Andean city \u2014 where the Inca Atahualpa was captured<\/strong> \u2014 the most joyful carnival in Peru<\/strong> is celebrated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Well, at least that\u2019s what the clones<\/a>, the viceroys<\/a>, the little old men and the many other characters of this spectacular carnival<\/strong> will tell you. It\u2019s unforgettable for the entrance, wake and burial of \u00d1o Carnaval\u00f3n<\/a>; for the comparsas and patrullas competitions; for the Grand Corso that floods the streets<\/strong> with colour and movement; for the coplas<\/em> with their bold \u2014 and slightly cheeky \u2014 lyrics<\/a>; and for the famous \u201cballoon war\u201d, where there are absolutely no truces.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you\u2019re after something more traditional, Ayacucho is an excellent destination<\/a>. In both the city and the countryside of this southern Andean region, the days when \u00d1o Carnaval\u00f3n reigns are lived with real intensity. In old Huamanga \u2014 as the regional capital was known in colonial times \u2014 people sing in Quechua, guitars ring out, talcum powder, water and streamers fill the air<\/strong>, and bodies are nourished with hearty puchero and chicha de jora.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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In many Andean communities, carnival is closely linked to the fertility of the Earth<\/strong>. This deep-rooted tradition is also reflected in other highland cities such as<\/strong> Cusco<\/a> and Abancay<\/a>. Another distinctive feature is the yunzas<\/a> (known as umisha in the Amazon), a lively custom in which gifts are hung from the branches of a tree<\/strong> while revellers dance around it, taking turns to try and chop it down.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now then, if you\u2019d like to be part of an ancestral<\/strong>, earth-centred celebration, don\u2019t miss the Pukllay de Andahuaylas<\/a> in Andahuaylas (Apur\u00edmac region), the largest native carnival in the country<\/strong>. Authenticity and living culture await you at 2,926 metres above sea level<\/strong>, in a unique and inclusive festival that brings together hundreds of delegations from different parts of Peru \u2014 that Peru which will always welcome you with a smile<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201c\u00a1Carnaval, carnaval!, es el grito general \/ \u00a1Carnaval, carnaval!, de alegr\u00eda sin igual.\u201d Yes, even if the year is still in its infancy, it\u2019s only right to start warming up your voice \u2014 if that\u2019s at all possible \u2014 polishing your dance steps, dusting off the costumes and, of course, telling you how this worldwide […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3354,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3498","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-turismo"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nPeru: February is Carnival - Discover the best carnivals<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"February Carnival in Peru: A unique celebration with elements from ancestral cultures. 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