{"id":3294,"date":"2026-01-09T12:44:47","date_gmt":"2026-01-09T12:44:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourslima.org\/?p=3294"},"modified":"2026-01-09T12:45:22","modified_gmt":"2026-01-09T12:45:22","slug":"callao-limas-port-that-isnt-actually-in-lima","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourslima.org\/en\/callao-limas-port-that-isnt-actually-in-lima\/","title":{"rendered":"Callao: Lima\u2019s port that isn\u2019t actually in Lima"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Inventario Tur\u00edstico Mincetur<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Lima, the Peruvian capital, there\u2019s the sea, beaches and piers, but not an actual port<\/strong>. Nor is there an airport handling national and international arrivals. I know it might sound strange that a city of over ten million people, facing the Pacific and serving as the main gateway to the country<\/strong>, lacks such key infrastructures within its urban area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m not kidding or exaggerating. \u201cI swear on Sarita<\/strong>\u201d\u2014a \u201csaint\u201d venerated by the people, though not officially by the Church\u2014there\u2019s neither of these in the city founded by the Spaniard Francisco Pizarro<\/a> on 18 January 1535. And before you think I\u2019m mistaken<\/strong>\u2014and I\u2019m sure you\u2019ve read or heard otherwise\u2014let me explain the widespread confusio<\/strong>n about this matter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The reason: the port and the international airport that serve Lima aren\u2019t located in any of the city\u2019s 43 districts<\/strong>. They are in Callao, a neighbouring city with which Lima forms a continuous urban area. Despite its proximity, the \u201cConstitutional Province<\/a>\u201d\u2014an honorary title granted in 1851 for defending the Constitution during a Civil War\u2014has its own unique character and identity<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: La Noticia<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It also has its own devotions. El Se\u00f1or del Mar<\/a> is the sworn patron and protector of the province (in Lima, that title belongs to El Se\u00f1or de los Milagros<\/a>). Carved in wood, the image was found intact inside a box after the earthquake and tsunami that devastated the port in 1746<\/strong>. That was the origin of the cult of El Se\u00f1or de la Ca\u00f1a and Justo Juez, as it was originally called.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Interestingly, the faith in both patrons is linked to seismic events<\/strong>. The story goes that in Colonial Lima, an enslaved Angolan painted the image of Christ on a wall in Pachacamilla. Miraculously, it remained standing during the earthquake of 1655. Since then, El Se\u00f1or de los Milagros has been venerated. Its processions take place in October<\/strong>, just like those of El Se\u00f1or del Mar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La Sarita, the people\u2019s saint<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Agencia Peruana de Noticias Andina<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The same happens with Rosita and the aforementioned Sarita. Saint Rose of Lima is the Patroness of Peru<\/strong>, the Americas, and the Philippines. Loved, adored, and respected since colonial times<\/strong>, Isabel Flores de Oliva\u2014her earthly name\u2014remains in the hearts and prayers of the capital\u2019s residents. They write letters with their requests and drop them into the wishing well<\/strong> of her historic sanctuary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The case of Sara Colonia Zambrano, Sarita Colonia<\/a>, is very different. Born in 1914 in the mountainous city of Huaraz (capital of the \u00c1ncash region), she moved to Callao at the age of 16<\/strong> with her father to work as a nanny<\/strong> in a wealthy household. This marked the beginning of a hard-working life in which she would also work as a laundress, domestic servant, and street vendor<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a brief period living in Lima, the \u201cPatroness of the Poor,\u201d as she is also known, died in Callao at the age of 26<\/strong>. Her strenuous life, her migrant background, her empathy for the marginalized, and the countless miracles attributed to her made her a popular \u201csaint,\u201d<\/strong> one who blesses and protects all who believe in her, including even the most hardened of criminals<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Explorando Per\u00fa<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sarita makes no distinctions<\/strong>. That\u2019s why she is so loved and cherished by the excluded and those who are invisible to society. She is who she is, and perhaps because of that, she is not officially recognised by the Church nor does she have a place on formal altars<\/strong>. Yet this hasn\u2019t stopped her devotion\u2014which is said to have begun in the 1970s among the dockworkers of Callao\u2014from spreading from the port to the rest of the country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sarita\u2019s remains rest in the Baqu\u00edjano and Carrillo Cemetery in the Constitutional Province. Every year, on 1 March<\/a>, the cemetery is visited by the faithful and devotees of the \u201cPatron of the Poor\u201d. They commemorate the life of this humble woman<\/strong> who, through her kindness, sacrifice, and perhaps even miracles, earned a place in the hearts of the dispossessed<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A spicy port<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Agencia Peruana de Noticias Andina<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Callao is \u201cspicy\u201d<\/strong>\u2014and not because of the little chilli that flavours a good ceviche or the famous choritos a la chalaca<\/a>, that appetising seafood<\/strong> starter that pays tribute to Peru\u2019s first port. Nor is it about the hearty breakfasts featuring<\/strong> bread with pejerrey<\/a>, roe, and pickled tuna, accompanied by a revitalising chilcano<\/strong>, a powerful fish broth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The \u201cspice\u201d I\u2019m talking about has nothing to do with food<\/strong>, but it could cause quite a few headaches for travellers arriving in Callao<\/a>, whose colonial history began almost alongside that of Lima. It\u2019s known that the first Spaniards settled on the Callao coast in 1535<\/strong>, the same year the nearby Peruvian capital was founded.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The opening of the first tambo in the area<\/strong>\u2014a Quechua term meaning \u201clodging place\u201d\u2014marked a milestone in the port\u2019s urban development. This took place on 6 March 1537. Eighteen years later, the Spanish quarter was built<\/strong>, and in 1538 Francisco L\u00f3pez was appointed mayor of the flourishing port of Lima by Viceroy Andr\u00e9s Hurtado de Mendoza, as it was known at the time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Y t\u00fa qu\u00e9 planes<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Little by little, the colonial port\u2014chosen for its wide harbour, favourable winds, and mild climate\u2014gradually ceased to be merely an appendage of the viceregal capital<\/strong>. Through tenacity and effort, the people of Callao would carve out their own history and identity<\/a>, laying the foundations for a vibrant, cosmopolitan city through constant contact with sailors from all over the world, many of whom would become \u201cchalacos\u201d themselves. For this and other reasons, on 20 August 1836, it was officially recognised as a coastal province<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A province that, given its proximity and accessibility\u2014it\u2019s only 15 km from the Historic Centre of the \u201cThrice-Crowned Town<\/a>\u201d\u2014shouldn\u2019t be left out of your travel plans<\/strong>. That said, be cautious and stay alert <\/strong>during your visit. I won\u2019t lie: Callao has several \u201cspicy\u201d (dangerous) spots<\/strong>, but in the historic area, the chances of having a bad experience are slim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chalaco Precautions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Agencia Peruana de Noticias Andina<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Better by day than by night<\/strong>. Better in a rideshare taxi than in one hailed off the street. Better to ask for directions than to venture down a lonely street<\/strong>. Yes, the best approach is to explore the Historic Centre of Callao<\/strong> with caution\u2014but without fear. It was declared a \u201cNational Cultural Heritage Site\u201d in 1972<\/strong> for its famous colonial houses, churches, public spaces, balconies, and cobbled streets from the Republican era<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But that\u2019s not all. The Tourist Resources Inventory of the Ministry of Foreign Trade<\/a> and Tourism (Mincetur) also notes that the area was the stage for major historical and military events<\/strong>, including the Dos de Mayo battle<\/a>. Add to that the monumental architecture, the proximity of the ocean that always soothes, and the lively, musical\u2014especially salsa-loving\u2014spirit of the locals, and your getaway will be an absolute winner<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A winner just like the goals scored by Sport Boys<\/a>, the club representing the Constitutional Province<\/strong>. So don\u2019t be surprised if, before entering the Real Felipe Fortress<\/a>\u2014a colonial stronghold built to fend off corsairs and pirates<\/strong>, or before spotting the huge ships anchored in the bay, or pausing in front of the Main Church<\/a> erected in 1833\u2014you come across a young man proudly wearing a pink jersey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Inventario Tur\u00edstico Mincetur<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

No, he\u2019s not a fan of Lionel Messi\u2019s Inter Miami.<\/strong> He\u2019s a supporter of \u201cVamos Boys,\u201d the first champion of professional Peruvian football<\/strong> in 1951 and the pioneer of the pink kit in stadiums. Since its foundation in 1927, clashes with the big teams from the capital, such as Universitario de Deportes and Alianza Lima, have fuelled the classic\u2014and probably eternal\u2014rivalry between the people of Callao and Lima<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And while the results aren\u2019t always the best, locals know that beyond what happens on the pitch, Callao will always keep its essence and identity<\/strong>. You\u2019ll discover it as you stroll through Plaza Grau<\/a>, along Jir\u00f3n Constituci\u00f3n, down Calle Independencia<\/a>, in the Chucuito neighbourhood<\/strong>, on the rocky beaches of La Punta, and in many other corners of this monumental destination that will never, ever be Lima<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Inventario Tur\u00edstico Mincetur<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Photo: Inventario Tur\u00edstico Mincetur In Lima, the Peruvian capital, there\u2019s the sea, beaches and piers, but not an actual port. Nor is there an airport handling national and international arrivals. I know it might sound strange that a city of over ten million people, facing the Pacific and serving as the main gateway to the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3237,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3294","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tourism"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCallao: Lima\u2019s Port That Isn\u2019t in Lima \u2013 A Port City<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Callao: Lima\u2019s Port That Isn\u2019t in Lima \u2013 A Tour of a Vibrant and Colourful Port City Proud of Its Historical Past\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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