{"id":2949,"date":"2025-10-22T17:37:58","date_gmt":"2025-10-22T17:37:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourslima.org\/?p=2949"},"modified":"2025-10-22T17:46:34","modified_gmt":"2025-10-22T17:46:34","slug":"lima-an-adventure-on-rails-along-the-central-railway","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourslima.org\/en\/lima-an-adventure-on-rails-along-the-central-railway\/","title":{"rendered":"Lima: an adventure on rails along the Central Railway"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Train journeys have an aura of romance and adventure<\/strong>. You might think differently, but whenever I plan a trip on rails<\/strong>, my mind drifts to certain images borrowed from films and stories; I picture myself starting a promising conversation with a lovely young lady \u2014 so promising that I secretly hope for the cover of a dark tunnel<\/strong> to trade words for a kiss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I must confess, it\u2019s never actually happened to me. Maybe next time \u2014 or maybe it never will. Ah well, that doesn\u2019t matter. I still can\u2019t help but imagine scenes where I turn into a hero<\/strong> who, armed with a gun or with bare fists, takes down the bandits trying to rob the train in some desolate landscape<\/strong>. Yes, I know, not very original \u2014 it\u2019s been done a thousand times in cowboy films.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I also picture myself in deserted towns<\/a> or remote areas, a kind of pioneer. But enough \u2014 I don\u2019t want to bore you with my travelling fantasies. That\u2019s not really the point of this story. I admit it and apologise for going slightly \u201coff the rails\u201d, as people used to say about the capricious Tren Macho<\/a>, the legendary Huancayo\u2013Huancavelica railway that \u201cleaves when it wants and arrives when it can.<\/strong>\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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That\u2019s how uncertain and challenging that journey through Peru\u2019s Central Highlands<\/strong> used to be \u2014 a country that boasts railway lines leading to places of great tourist interest. The best-known section is the one connecting Ollantaytambo with Machu Picchu Pueblo<\/strong>. In its early days, this line linked Cusco, the ancient Inca capital, with Quillabamba, the capital of the Amazonian province of La Convenci\u00f3n.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, there are several tourist rail options<\/a> that let you reach the cities of Cusco<\/a>, Puno, and Arequipa in a different way \u2014 on one- or two-night journeys filled with luxury and comfort. But there\u2019s another route, more occasional and lesser-known<\/strong>, that begins on the coast and ends high in the Andes. On its determined climb towards the mountains, the railway reaches an altitude of 4,781 metres above sea level<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first train in South America<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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The whistles of locomotives were first heard in Peru on 17 May 1851<\/strong>, with the inauguration of South America\u2019s very first railway<\/strong>. The line, roughly 15 kilometres long, connected Lima with the port of Callao<\/strong>. An English-built engine manufactured by Robert Stephenson & Co. led those pioneering journeys, made possible through the initiative of President Ram\u00f3n Castilla y Marquesado<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Marshal Castilla governed Peru in two periods (1845\u20131851 \/ 1855\u20131862). During his rule, slavery and the indigenous tribute were abolished<\/strong>. He also launched a process of modernisation which, in addition to the Lima\u2013Callao and Tacna\u2013Arica railways (1856)<\/strong>, brought the telegraph and gas lighting to the capital of the Republic. These advances marked a milestone in Peruvian history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You might be wondering why I\u2019m writing about Castilla\u2019s government<\/strong> instead of the Lima\u2013Huancayo\u2013Lima tourist train<\/a>. Patience. I haven\u2019t gone \u201coff the rails\u201d or boarded the wrong carriage. I\u2019m not even arriving at a station \u2014 I just wanted to mention the origins of the Central Railway of Peru<\/strong> (Ferrocarril Central del Per\u00fa), known today as the Ferrocarril Central Andino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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By train from Lima to Huancayo<\/strong> (3,259 metres above sea level) \u2014 but only on special occasions such as Easter or Peru\u2019s Independence Day celebrations<\/strong>. When that happens, the old and elegant Desamparados Station<\/a>, now home to the House of Peruvian Literature<\/a>, once again fills with dozens of passengers making their way towards the carriages about to depart for the highlands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Let the adventure begin! Twelve hours through valleys and tunnels<\/strong>, mountains and bridges, mining towns and thrilling zigzags. Little by little, the train leaves the coast behind and climbs steadily towards the Andes<\/strong>. The air becomes thinner. You catch glimpses of the R\u00edmac River and snow-capped peaks. You feel the chill, yet the excitement of being there \u2014 watching the changing landscape and the winding railway line laid more than 150 years ago<\/strong> \u2014 ignites your travelling spirit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A railway dream<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A challenge for railway engineering. A technological feat<\/strong> carved into the ravines of the Andes. The idea was born in 1851<\/strong>, when Polish engineer Ernesto Malinowski<\/a> proposed extending the Lima\u2013Callao railway to Jauja<\/a>, a charming city in the Mantaro Valley (Jun\u00edn region). Founded by Francisco Pizarro on 25 April 1534, Jauja had the honour of being Peru\u2019s first capital<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOf the four possible routes, the one through the R\u00edmac River gorge<\/strong> was chosen. The layout of the initial section was designed by engineer Malinowski, and its construction was entrusted to the American Henry Meiggs<\/strong>, who was expected to complete the work within six years,\u201d notes the website of Ferrocarril Central Andino<\/a> (FCA), the company that currently operates \u201cthe highest railway in the Americas<\/strong> and the second highest in the world.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stop. Look. Listen<\/strong>. Let\u2019s pause to get the timeline straight and avoid confusion. Although the idea was conceived in 1851, construction of the railway actually began on 20 January 1870<\/strong>, under the direction of Enrique (Henry) Meiggs \u2014 a skilled and shrewd American entrepreneur who, among the businessmen of his time, was known as \u201cthe most generous man in Peru.<\/strong>\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe politicians who benefited from his bribes thought the same,\u201d writes Ricardo Hinojosa in his article Rails in the Andes: When Altitude Is the Heart of the Earth<\/a>. As if his \u201cgenerosity\u201d and experience in railway construction weren\u2019t enough, Meiggs\u2019s proposal also happened to be the most economical<\/strong>. Done. Contract signed. The American now had to \u201clay rails where llamas tread.<\/strong>\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That was his promise<\/strong>, according to Hinojosa\u2019s account \u2014 a promise that was far from easy to keep, given the steep terrain and the outbreaks of Peruvian wart disease and Oroya fever<\/a>. These devastating illnesses took a severe toll on the workers. Both ailments, documented since pre-Hispanic times, claimed the lives of nearly 7,000 people<\/strong>, as mentioned on the FCA website.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the way to the \u201cUnconquerable City\u201d<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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The train comes to life<\/strong> and slowly pulls away from Lima<\/a>\u2019s Historic Centre. The locomotive moves at an unhurried pace, as if wanting the passengers in the observation carriage<\/strong> to take in the scenery and admire the technical feat achieved by more than 10,000 men<\/strong> \u2014 Peruvians, Chileans, and Chinese workers from Macao \u2014 who \u201cplanted\u201d rails and sleepers along the 535 kilometres of the Central Railway<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A titanic work <\/strong>built with perseverance and without the help of the modern machinery we know today. It was no easy task \u2014 geography, economics, politics, and even war stood<\/strong> in the way. In 1878, construction was halted by the war with Chile<\/a>. Defeat, crisis, and the struggle to rebuild a wounded<\/strong> nation delayed the project\u2019s continuation until 1890. Three years later, the rails would finally reach La Oroya<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The metropolis fades into the distance. The river, the gorges, and the mountains emerge<\/strong>. The sky clears, and the air feels purer. The train heads towards Huancayo, just as it did on 22 September 1908. The first journey<\/strong>. Desamparados Station. 150 passengers<\/strong> board the carriages, pulled by a powerful Rogers locomotive<\/a>. It\u2019s a historic moment \u2014 the culmination of a story that began in 1851.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Two days later, on 24 September, the locomotive \u201carrived in Huancayo, billowing smoke and blowing its whistles<\/strong>\u2026 greeted with a triumphant welcome,\u201d as stated in the document Enrique Meiggs 1811\u20131877<\/a>, published by the Congress of the Republic. Don\u2019t worry \u2014 your journey will be shorter<\/strong>. Still, I\u2019m sure you\u2019ll arrive just as thrilled as those pioneers of the early 20th century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And how could you not be? On the way to the \u201cUnconquerable City<\/a>\u201d \u2014 as Huancayo, the capital of Jun\u00edn, is known \u2014 the train passes through 69 tunnels<\/strong> (the longest being the Balta Tunnel, stretching 1,378 metres), crosses 58 bridges<\/strong> (including the spectacular Infiernillo, which seems to \u201cfly\u201d between two mountains), and climbs six thrilling zigzags<\/strong>. The route includes a stop at Galera Station, the highest point of the line, where you\u2019ll catch sight of the snow-capped Ticlio peak<\/strong> (4,818 m).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So now you know \u2014 if you\u2019re one of those who believe trains carry an aura of romance and adventure, hop aboard the Central Railway of Peru<\/strong>. And if you don\u2019t, but still love travel<\/strong> and mountain scenery, join this unique journey \u2014 so special that it only takes place on festive days and holidays.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Train journeys have an aura of romance and adventure. You might think differently, but whenever I plan a trip on rails, my mind drifts to certain images borrowed from films and stories; I picture myself starting a promising conversation with a lovely young lady \u2014 so promising that I secretly hope for the cover of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2923,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2949","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-turismo"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nLima: an adventure on rails along the Central Railway<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Adventure on the Central Railway. 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